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ISBN 10: 1032840625
ISBN 13: 9781032840628
Author: J Hayavadana
Keeping in mind the advancements in the field of science and technology within the context of weaving, this book discusses advanced woven fabric design. It details the structural aspects of woven fabric and expands upon the related weaving or loom equipment required to produce a specific fabric structure. The subject matter of this book includes: Treble clothes Weft pile fabrics Damask and brocade fabrics Gauze and leno Practical aspects of fabric analysis This book includes illustrative examples and worksheets, which enable the reader to gain first-hand practice of fabric designing. Print edition not for sale in South Asia (India, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Bangladesh, Pakistan or Bhutan)
1 Introduction to advanced fabric design
1.1 Methods to increase the weight of fabrics
1.2 Figuring with extra threads
1.2.1 Principle of extra thread figuring
1.2.2 Methods of introducing extra figuring threads
1.2.3 Methods of disposing of the surplus extra threads
1.3 Extra warp figuring
1.3.1 Principle of extra warp figuring
1.3.2 Spot designs for extra warp
1.3.3 Weaving arrangements for extra warp
1.3.4 Draft in extra figuring
1.3.5 Denting in extra thread figuring
1.3.6 Continuous figuring with one extra warp
1.3.7 Intermittent figuring in one extra warp
1.3.8 Cut-in effects and clipped spot effects in extra warp
1.3.9 Extra warp figured effects
1.3.10 Ornamentation of extra figuring with two coloured warp
1.3.11 Extra warp planting
1.4 Extra weft figuring
1.4.1 Loom equipment and notation in point paper designs
1.4.2 Spot effects, continuous figuring with one extra weft
1.4.3 Intermittent effects in extra weft
1.4.4 Modification of ground weave
1.4.5 Cut-in effects in extra weft
1.4.6 Ornamentation in extra weft figuring
1.4.7 Stitching by means of special threads (ends/picks)
1.4.8 Stitching by means of special ends
1.4.9 Stitching by means of special ends for extra weft
1.4.10 Stitching in of extra weft fabrics
1.4.11 Combing ground float and extra thread float
1.4.12 Continuous extra weft with two colours
1.4.13 Combined extra warp and extra weft fabric
1.4.14 Chintzing
1.5 Differences between extra warp and extra weft
1.6 Differences between backed clothes and extra thread figuring
2 Backed fabrics
2.1 Introduction
2.2 Warp-backed fabrics
2.2.1 Development of warp-backed cloth
2.3 How to find the repeat size of backed cloth designs - LCM (Least Common Multiple) approach
2.4 Reversible warp-backed fabrics
2.4.1 Condition for reversibility
2.4.2 Backed fabrics with standard twill weaves
2.4.3 Beaming and drafting of backed clothes
2.4.4 Advantages of warp-backed fabrics
2.4.5 Disadvantages of warp-backed fabrics
2.5 Weft-backed fabrics
2.5.1 Reversible weft-backed clothes
2.5.2 Construction of weft-backed clothes with twill weaves
2.6 Wadded backed clothes
2.6.1 Constructional steps of wadded backed clothes
2.6.2 Method of arranging wadding at the centre of two layers
2.7 Weft-backed warp wadded clothes
2.8 Warp-backed weft wadded cloth
2.9 Imitation effects in backed clothes
2.10 Interchanging effects in weft-backed fabrics
2.11 Differences between backed clothes and extra thread figuring
2.12 Differences between warp-backed and weft-backed clothes
3 Double-layered structures
3.1 Introduction
3.2 Classification of double clothes
3.2.1 Self-stitched double clothes
3.2.2 Arrangement of threads
3.2.3 Selection of weaves: In general
3.2.4 Selection of RTP in double clothes
3.3 Development of simple double clothes (self-stitched)
3.4 S elf-stitched double cloth with different combinations
3.5 Beaming and drafting of double clothes
3.6 Reversible double clothes
3.7 Centre-stitched double clothes
Why self-stitched double clothes are not preferred?
3.8 Centre warp stitched double clothes
Where should be the point of contact for centre in centre-stitched double cloth?
Tartan-line overcasting
3.9 Centre weft stitched double clothes
Why centre weft stitching is not preferred over centre warp stitching?
When do you prefer centre weft stitching?
3.10 Wadded double clothes
3.10.1 Warp wadded double clothes
Weaving arrangement
3.10.2 Weft wadded double clothes
Weaving arrangement
3.11 Interchangeable (IC) double clothes
3.11.1 Types of threads and RTP in IC double clothes
3.11.2 Systematic construction of IC double clothes
Drawing and denting arrangements
3.12 Cut double clothes
3.13 Differences between backed clothes and double clothes
4 Treble clothes
4.1 Introduction
4.2 Methods of stitching
4.3 Construction of treble clothes
4.4 Beaming of treble clothes
4.5 Drafting of treble clothes
4.6 Treble clothes with dissimilar weaves in the different fabric layers (Fig. 4.3 to Fig. 4.6)
4.7 Use of the centre layer as wadding (Fig. 4.6)
5 Pile fabrics (terry pile)
5.1 Introduction
5.2 Classification of pile fabrics
5.3 Terry pile fabrics
What are terry pile fabrics?
What is RTP of terry pile?
5.4 History, research, and development of terry fabric production
5.4.1 Introduction
5.4.2 Research studies on terry towels
5.4.3 Research studies on chemical processing of terry
5.4.4 Global leaders in terry towel production
5.4.5 Indian perspective
5.4.6 Approaches for production of terry pile fabrics
5.5 Classification of towels
5.6 Terry looms
5.6.1 Number of filling colours, warp stop, and types of weft insertion
5.6.2 Filling insertion with rapiers
5.6.3 Filling insertion with projectile
5.7 Terry fabrics produced by means of terry motion
5.7.1 Ornamentation of terry
5.7.2 Loop or pile formation in terry and terry motions
5.8 Take-up
5.9 Selvedges on terry loom
5.9.1 Leno selvedge
5.9.2 Tuck-in selvedge
5.10 Types of terry motions (fast reed or loose reed)
5.11 Terry designing
5.12 Classification of terry towels
5.13 Fibres suitable for terry towels
5.14 Basic parameters of a quality terry towel
5.15 Designing of terry towel and the requirements of a terry towel
Fibres other than cotton
5.16 Type of yarns in terry
5.16.1 Pile yarn
5.16.2 Ground yarn
5.16.3 Weft yarn
5.16.4 Border weft
5.17 Parameters of yarn
5.18 Formation of pile
5.19 Figured terry
5.20 Technology of terry towel production
5.20.1 Spinning
5.20.2 Preparatory process to
5.20.3 Weaving arrangements
5.20.4 Let off (conventional looms)
5.20.5 Let off (unconventional looms)
5.20.6 Take-up
5.20.7 Selvedge motion
5.20.8 Weft measuring and patterning motion
5.20.9 Warp and Weft thread control
5.20.10 Gery fabric inspection and rolling
5.20.11 Post-weaving of terry towels
5.21 Chemical processing of terry towels
5.21.1 Desizing
5.21.2 Fabric dyeing
5.21.3 Printing
5.21.4 Final finishing of terry towels
5.21.5 Hydrophilic treatment
5.21.6 Antimicrobial treatment
5.21.7 Mechanical
5.22 Quality control aspects of terry towels
5.23 Economics of terry production
5.24 Characterization of terry towel fabrics
5.25 Modern developments in terry production
5.26 G6200 rapier weaving machine
References
6 Weft pile fabrics
6.1 Introduction
6.2 All over or plain velveteens
6.2.1 Plain back velveteens
6.3 Fast pile structures
6.4 Twill back velveteens
6.4.1 Designs to simplify the cutting operation
6.4.2 Qualities of all over velveteens
6.5 Weft plushes
6.6 Ribbed or corded velveteen
6.6.1 Ribbed velveteen
6.6.2 Corduroys
6.7 Figured velveteen
6.8 Figured corduroy
7 Gauze and leno
7.1 Introduction
7.2 Types of threads used in cross weaving and RTP
7.3 The principle of cross weaving
7.3 Beaming drafting and denting
7.4 Position of standard with respect to crossing
7.4.1 Bottom douping
7.4.2 Top douping
7.5 Position of crossing and standard ends
7.6 Loom equipment necessary for cross weaving
7.6.1 Harness heddles
7.6.2 Facilities for cross weaving
7.7 Basic sheds formed in gauze and leno
7.7.1 Open shed
7.7.2 Crossed shed
7.7.3 Closed shed and plain shed
7.8 Different types of structures in gauze and leno weaving
7.8.1 Simple leno with ordinary doup wires
7.8.2 Leno on 10 picks with single side slotted doup wire
7.8.3 Net leno
7.8.4 Russian cords
7.9 Easer or slackener
7.9.1 Positive easing motion
7.9.2 Jumper motion
7.10 Yoke
7.11 Differences between gauze and leno
8 Damask and brocade fabrics
8.1 Introduction
8.2 Classification of damask
8.3 Self-twilling jacquard for damask production
8.3.1 Other equipment available for damask production
8.4 Methods of preparing damask designs
8.5 Types of damasks
8.5.1 Compound damask fabrics
8.6 Commercial damask fabrics (arrangement of figures in jacquard weaving)
8.7 Brocades
8.7.1 Developing applied design for brocade fabrics
8.8 Comparison of damask and brocade
9 Practical aspects of fabric analysis
9.1 Introduction
9.2 Fabric analysis – a tool for fabric engineering
9.2.1 Case – I: Single-layered structure
9.2.2 Role of R&D department
9.2.3 Need for fabric analysis
9.2.4 Procedure for fabric analysis and design
9.3 Significance of each parameter in fabric analysis
9.3.1 Selvedge and type
9.3.2 Threads/unit space
9.3.3 Yarn count
9.3.4 Fabric cover
9.4 Fabric analysis sheet: Simple structures
9.5 Advanced fabric analysis sheet
types of fabric design
advantages of woven fabrics
advanced fabric technologies
advanced fiber nonwovens
advanced weaving techniques
Tags: J Hayavadana, woven, design