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China 2016: a country of many contradictions. Top-of-the-range Bentleys, Porsches and Ferraris belt around the ring roads that seem to sprout up every other year in the capital, Beijing; yet, in the centre of the city, the residual ghost of the influence of the Soviet Union, where 99 per cent of the country’s economy was in the hands of the state, lingers in the main public space. The world’s largest urban open space, Tiananmen Square is also a place of powerful symbolism for the People’s Republic, overshadowed west and east by immense public buildings erected in the 1950s, and north and south by the highly renovated remnants of the imperial era before. On the Gate of Heavenly Peace, the northernmost of these, marking the outer entrance to the Forbidden City, hangs a massive portrait of an ageing Chinese man, staring down with a slightly ambiguous smile, hair receding, and a very visible mole on his chin.